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Achtung! There has been an update to my universal O2 sensor "success" story. The short version is - factory O2 sensors are now in my car. I discovered that every time I started my CLK430 on an incline, the CE light would illuminate. The message indicated both secondary O2 sensor heaters were faulty. I replaced them with OEM parts and the problem no longer occurred. Also, Bosch makes "direct fit" secondary oxygen sensors for the 2001/2002 CLK430. The Bosch U.S. catalogs list the wrong parts. I know this because I bought a set and couldn't plug them into the factory wiring harness. In the photo below, you can see the difference between the factory plug on the left and the "direct fit" plug on the right. At the time of this writing, the Bosch catalogs show 13599 and 13580 as the replacement part numbers. The correct Bosch part numbers are 16320 and 16324.

Many people, myself included, have successfully used Bosch universal oxygen sensors. Unfortunately, they didn't work for me on this single application. If you would like to give them a try, continue reading.


A Mercedes-Benz with a V8 or V6 and ME 2.8, uses Bosch part number 15733 for the upstream oxygen sensors, and 15736 for the downstream. A Mercedes-Benz with a V8 or V6 and ME 2.0 uses a Bosch 15738 in all four locations.

The Porsche 3.2 Carrera and 964 both use a Bosch 15735. A 993 uses a Bosch 15738 (all four). The 996 and 997 use a Bosch 15733 (only the downstream sensors have been confirmed as working on the 997).

These are the contents of the kit:
  1. Oxygen Sensor
  2. 4 Posi-lock terminals (which I didn't use)
  3. Cap
  4. Body
  5. 8 Wire seals

The new oxygen sensor used the wiring harness plug from the old oxygen sensor. It was important that the resulting cable was long enough to go from the oxygen sensor, to the plug on the engine wiring harness. I added a few inches because I wanted to make sure there was room to maneuver the water resistant body (D) from the kit if necessary. Others may prefer a shorter wire.

After the old oxygen sensor was removed, it was laid on a flat surface with the wire stretched out. The new one was laid next to it.

I cut the wires right about where the red arrows are. I then cut 1½ inches of insulation from each end - both the new oxygen sensor and the plug that will be reused.

I installed the cap (C) on the wires by inserting the wires into the holes. See the photo on the upper left.

Next I slid the wire seals (E) over each wire. The un-ribbed, smaller diameter end of the seal should face the cap. See photo on the upper right.

Lastly, I stripped ½ inch of insulation off each individual wire. I used a wire stripper, so as to do a proper job.

I installed the body (D) on the wires by inserting the wires into the holes. See the photo on the lower left.

Once again I then slid the wire seals (E) over each wire. The un-ribbed, smaller diameter end of the seal should face the body. See photo on the lower right.

I stripped ½ inch of insulation off each individual wire here as well.

When replacing an original equipment Bosch oxygen sensor (Mercedes-Benz and Porsche), the wire colors line up. At least, they did on mine. The instructions that come with the kit list many other wiring options for various cars. It's important to double check the colors against those in the instructions. Mixing them up would probably have very bad results.

Wire colors on the new O2 Sensor   Wire colors on the old O2 Sensor
Gray (signal ground)   Gray
White (heater)   White
White (heater)   White
Black (signal)   Black

Note: The wire colors on your OEM O2 sensor may differ from the one I listed.

This is where I deviated from the instructions. The kit recommended using the posi-lock terminals. I used 22-18 gauge butt connectors. Don't bother trying to solder the connections. The sensor uses stainless steel wire, and it's almost impossible to solder. Some may want to heat shrink them when they're done. I didn't. I crimped the individual like colored wires together, slid the wire seals (E), wires, and butt connectors down the body (D), and pushed the cap (C) onto the body until the tabs on the cap locked into position. The body (D) has four separate chambers, so the wires will not short

At the time of installation, the dealer list on my secondary oxygen sensors was $250 and $260 for the front two, and $214 and $226 for the rear two. I paid about $250 for all four, plus shipping.


This webpage describes a portion of what I did when changing oxygen sensors. This page is for entertainment value only. I do not guarantee the accuracy of these instructions and highly recommend that everyone use the services of a qualified mechanic to perform all maintenance, repairs, & services on their vehicle.

© 2007 Marcus Blair Fitzhugh
Signal to Noise